Hey, this is Chris Idaho Painter. Thanks for watching this free lesson on how to epoxy a garage floor. If you want to see more of my comprehensive course, it's at paintlifeupply.com. It goes over estimating, it goes over marketing, it goes over all the steps to complete a professional garage epoxy floor. So, hopefully enjoy this lesson. Thank you for watching. Right now, I've got my pressure washing, cleaning, degreasing all done. came out here, used the pressure washer, uh the all surface cleaner, and the rotating nozzle to thoroughly clean this. It's absolutely spotless now. So, now you know, we've waited 2 days. Typically, you're going to want to wait 2 days before you do uh any work on the garage floor. It's been 2 days and now we're going to begin the filling of our saw cuts, filling of cracks, um, and the joints around where the footings are. And then we're going to begin the priming process. So, before I begin, you know, working here, I'm going to blow this out just, you know, as the garage doors have been open. When it was drying out, it was windy. It's blown in some tree seeds and stuff. Our feet have tracked in a little bit of dirt. I'm going to blow this out. Now we're going to uh fill uh shave our uh filler, get it all level, and then I'll blow it out one more time. So, I typically just have a battery operated blower that I blow everything out with and uh get this all um all the debris out of here cuz we don't want any debris getting mixed in with our uh with our primer. So, just a simple little process. I'm going to begin blowing it out. All right. Now, I'm getting ready to uh do our filler for our saw joints and our footing joints. So, I'm going to be using, you know, two different products. I'm using a Rustoleum product, uh Concrete Saver Pro. This is a non-sag sealant. So, I can if there's any like cracks in the corners or cracks on your footings or stem walls, this is a non-sag product that you can fill those cracks with right here. And so, this is a one part product. Just going to put it into a standard caulking tube. We've got a two-part product. So, this is Polylex 93 and this is a um high strength poly ura elastimemer that's going to go in our saw cuts. So, it's a two-part product, 100% solids. It's a self-leveling product and a fast cure product. So, we're going to fill you'll overfill your saw cuts and then you go back, it dries about 45 minutes to an hour. You go back, scrape it flat. That way, you'll end up having a seamless floor. I like my floors, you know, being seamless. I don't like to see saw cuts. Um I don't like to see products, you know, that shrink and like kind of like leave an indentation, you know, where the saw cut is. We like to have a seamless floor. So that's this product. Uh eventually when you set it up and begin gunning it, uh the first uh tube of the stuff you're just going to eject it and get rid of it, but then as after that, you're going to begin filling your cracks with it. the one part product. Uh you you can just go put it in the cracks. We're just trying to get the fine crack along the footing where the uh seam board is. I'm just going to fill that crack. When we go back and prime the primer is going to cover over the top of that board and then our coating, you know, our layers of our coating will end up filling that in. So, this is a toolable product that I'm actually going to be applying and tooling. This is a non-toolable self-leveling product that you just uh scrape off. And you'll see what that looks like, you know, as we go. So, I'm going to begin the process doing our saw cuts and um joints. Once again, this is Polylex 93. Kind of just sets in the gun just like a typical cocking gun. Snaps in place. So, I just pulled off the cap. There's a little cap right here. Just going to discard that. Typically, keep, you know, just like a 5gallon bucket. You know, keep some rags available. Keep some latex gloves available. This stuff, you know, is kind of nasty. You don't want to get it, you know, on yourself. So, guns all ready to go. Start gunning it. I'm You start gunning. You'll see it start to just fill the tube and it's swirling itself through the tube and it's mixing it now. Just like that, you have your two-part filler mixing it. So, the first bit, the first tube, I eject it into you inject into a glove or you can inject it into a bucket just like that. Just like that. It's ready to go. Now I can begin filling. So I'm going to begin filling my crack. And you want to make sure you're overfilling it because you got to have something to scrape. Sets up. Once it mixes through this tube, it sets up in 45 minutes to an hour. Once your tube runs out, you just cover it with the tip. And I'll get another tube. When I get close to the outside, I'm going to slow down cuz I don't want a lot pouring outside the door. I just started thinking I stuffed a piece of backer rod. So, I'm just going to give you a simple tip like if when you're moving around, you know, with the product, you know, don't invert your gun upside down because this stuff can start pouring back down inside the tube. tubes and cause it to activate inside the tube. So, keep tip down when you're moving wherever you're going. So, just like this. My tip is down. You don't want to walk with the tip up. So, next crack we're going to move over here. So if you're, you know, attempting to do floor coatings, you know, in the winter time, this product right here that I'm using. Uh, you could actually apply this product all the way down to -20. So, pretty much cold temperatures aren't much of a factor when it comes to this product. If you're doing large projects, you um they do sell this kit for large projects. So they have 10 gallon kits that you can use a machine to actually apply it with. Takes the cost down significantly of the product, you know, per kit. So uh consider that if you're doing large projects. I got this really small crack. So I'll be amazed cuz it'll just fill get really down. It's like this small crack. the consistency of the product. It's going to get down in there, fill that. This thing will just completely go away. I'm just going to keep my eye on it because there it's not big enough to get back a rod. We got one spot where it's starting to sink down in. I'm going to go back over here when I get to the end. So, I'm just working along here. So, all I'm trying to do, there's just a small crack where this board meets our footing. We don't want our coating to disappear. We don't want bugs coming up through there. So the primer will get on top of this board and prime it. So I'm just doing the small bead and then tooling it with my finger. Just keeping a cardboard with me right here to just wipe it on. So, I'm using once again on this up against this footing, I'm using Rustoleum's non-sag seal lant. This is their concrete saver pro. So, it's a product you can actually tool a product that if I had cracks up on like my stem walls or the footings, I can actually put it in those cracks, fill those cracks, and it's not going to sag or run down. So, I'm just lightly touching it when I get it into this crack after I put a small bead in there just to help push it down inside that crack. So, just a few kind of features on this product here that I'm using. You know, this is a 100% solids product, so it won't shrink. I've used products in the past, you know, you fill a crack, it dries, cures, and it shrinks. And now you kind of have a indentation, you know, where your, you know, crack was being 100% solids. It's not going to shrink. It's also paintable. product is also can be applied if there's moisture around. So if the concrete's moist, it'll still bond stick So, we are filling our saw cuts, shaving them off with our floor scraper. Once again, we did use Polylex 93 right here. High strength poly ura filler. So, you know, one of the things, you know, this is a product, two-part product with um the tube that actually mixes it. So, as when it's going up this tube, it's mixing it and basically catalyzing it together and activating it. So, you know, one of the things, you know, reading the TDS, uh, the product is is pretty thick, but then it it is actually shakable. It does say on the TDS to shake this. It doesn't say how long to shake it, but it does say to actually, you know, shake this before you start using it and applying it. And I don't know, like there um there could be something to the whole shaking process. It doesn't feel like, you know, um I feel anything moving around in there. Um cuz it is completely full. No air bubbles. But, you know, we had some a little bit that was a little bit greener, a little bit grayer right there. And maybe the shaking process will help eliminate that at all. Now I'm beginning to scrape off the uh coating. Now it's been over 45 minutes. Actually been over like an hour. So you can see it just cuts right off with a floor blade. Shaves it right off flat. That way when you do your coating, you literally will have a seamless floor. So, see, it just shaves off. Wherever I got any drips, could just shave those drips off. So, here's what it looks like. And I got more than one blade. So, I got a pack of blades, you know, cuz the blades will eventually get dull when it starts to not cut it real easy. Then just switch out your blade. So I start from one tip of the blade and kind of work it to the other end of the blade. Just push with my hips. Now I can start to see it kind of pull on my sealant and not cut it. You know, it's smooth. You can start to see it like leave it kind of like what I call like all jagged a little bit. So I'm going to switch out my blade, put another blade on so it starts cutting again. Once I'm done, you with my floor scraper. I think I got all my scraping done. Just flip your blade upside down so nobody gets cut. And then there's a sheet that goes over the top of that. But I just flip them over. There's the flat side right here is not going to cut anybody. So, floor scraping's done. Ready to start priming.
